Reports of a European ban on a crucial chemical used in the manufacture of gel polish has revived fears that these trendy manicures are doing its wearers more harm than good. 

On September 1, the EU announced a precautionary ban on the use trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) in cosmetic products like gel polish amid concerns the ingredient can cause fertility problems. 

But this isn’t the first time these manicures have been associated with horrifying health risks – including severe allergic reactions that left women with bleeding and peeling fingers, fungal infections, and even skin cancer.  

The biggest cause for concern so far has come from studies that found radiation emitted by ultraviolet lamps used at high street nail bars ‘may cause cancers of the hand’. 

Nail bars offering these manicures started popping up around the country in the early 2000s, but have since exploded in popularity – primarily because they promise a much glossier, longer-lasting finish than the more old-fashioned treatments. 

But women are now increasingly weighing up the pros and cons of these manicures that last for anywhere between three and four weeks without chipping, as dermatologists reported a rise in the number of patients coming in with infections caused by gel polish. 

Other dangers include damage to the nail and premature skin aging, as it appears gel manicures are losing some of their sheen. 

The nail bar industry has often dismissed these concerns, claiming the findings of these short-term studies as not being backed by enough evidence. 

Fertility issues 

The latest health concern to be linked to gel manicures is fertility issues after a key ingredient used in these polishes was banned across Europe amid fears it could be toxic. 

As of September 1, the European Union has banned the use of trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide – commonly referred to as TPO – after studies showed it could adversely impact reproductive health. 

TPO is a photoinitiator, or the ingredient responsible for gel polish’s fast drying quality. The chemical also helps the nail varnish harden when exposed to ultraviolet light from the LED lamps used at salons. 

While this treatment means gel polish doesn’t chip or fade as easily as regular nail paint, experts are now raising concerns about its effect on fertility in the long run.  

The newly enforced ban means that nail salons across the EU’s 27 member states – as well as other countries that mirror its regulations such as Norway – have been informed that they must stop offering TPO-based nail gels, and safely dispose of their current stock.

Manufacturers will also now have to reformulate their products to be TPO-free.

However, these products will remain on sale in the UK and US – although industry insiders expect a similar precautionary ban on salons across the country towards the end of 2026. 

Reacting to the ban, some experts have noted the animal studies linking TPO to possible fertility complications are not supported by robust scientific evidence. 

During these studies, animals like rats were given high doses of TPO in exposure conditions that were significantly different to realistic scenarios where a much smaller amount of the chemical is applied to a human nail. 

Further, TPO’s effect on human reproductive health is still unclear since the studies about its toxicity were focussed on animals. 

Skin cancer

Researchers at the University of California, San Diego and University of Pittsburgh sounded the alarm after they found that radiation emitted from the UV lamps used leads to cancer-causing mutations in human cells. 

In a series of laboratory studies, they found a high proportion of skin cells repeatedly exposed to the light emitted by these lamps died. 

Cells that did survive showed signs of damage, including to DNA, which can increase the risk of skin cancer.

Writing in the journal Nature Communications, the study authors warned: ‘Our experimental results … strongly suggest that radiation emitted by UV nail polish dryers may cause cancers of the hand.’

They added: ‘UV nail polish dryers, similar to tanning beds, may increase the risk of early-onset skin cancer.’ 

However, they cautioned that the study ‘does not provide direct evidence for an increased cancer risk in humans’.

Reacting to the study, Doug Schoon, of the US’s Nail Manufacturing Council, a chemist by training, said it was ‘a biased and unfair attack’.

He said the reasearchers used a very high-powered UV lamp and exposed cultured skin cells for far too long – 20 minutes a day for three consecutive days.

He added customers typically hold a hand under a lamp for three minutes during a nail bar session. Most go a couple of times a month.

‘I can guarantee results would be much different if they used three one-minute exposures. It appears their agenda is to make all UV nail lamps look dangerous,’ he said.

‘For over 20 years millions have regularly used these lamps, so they have a long history of safe use.

‘The bulk of scientific evidence demonstrates that UV nail lamps are safe, when used properly.’

Severe allergic reactions 

In 2018, dermatologists warned gel polishes could trigger allergic reactions and by 2023, TikTok was awash with graphic videos of women left horrified by the after-effects of their manicures. 

The culprit in this case is the group of chemicals in gel varnishes, known as methacrylates, that can cause ‘painful peeling’, swelling, itching, and blisters if exposed to the skin. 

Those who suffer this reaction are then unable to tolerate being exposed to the chemical, which is used in routine procedures such as fillings and hip replacements. 

Exposure to methacrylates can have ‘serious consequences for future medical care’, according to Bath-based consultant dermatologist Dr Deirdre Buckley. 

During gel manicures, methacrylates can enter the skin when the ultraviolet lamps used to seal and harden each layer of gel are not used for long enough, or the equipment is poorly maintained.

Each gel polish brand has an exact curing time which should be adhered to, often either 30, 60 or 90 seconds.

If the gel is not sufficiently ‘cured’ for the correct period of time, a reaction to the chemicals can occur on the skin around the nails, experts noted. 

Symptoms include the nails loosening and falling off, sores on fingers, and red and swollen cuticles, as well as severe rashes on the face, neck, or upper chest. Simply brushing your nails against your arms or touching your face can cause symptoms to spread to those areas.

One TikTok user @helenhopeofficial shared how her gel manicure habit took a turn when she started getting blisters on her fingers and watched in shock as her nails lifted off the bed (a condition known as ‘oncholyosis’) and the skin near her fingertips began peeling. 

When she consulted a nail technician, the TikTok user realised gel polishes can have ‘high levels of allergens’ and that her symptoms were the result of Hema – or a type of methacrylate. 

Multiple women told this paper how using at-home gel nail kits had led them to develop allergic reactions with painful symptoms such as ‘yellowish nails, peeling sore fingertips, burning, and red, split skin’. 

Dr Buckley previously told the Daily Mail: ‘It’s important that people are aware of the potential risks of artificial nail products, whether they are having them applied in a salon or at home.

‘Nail technicians are particularly at risk and should wear nitrile gloves when applying the products, changing them every thirty minutes with a no-touch technique.’